A visit to the wildflower meadows of Swaledale

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Wandering through the spectacular wildflower meadows near Muker in Swaledale in the summer when they were in flower

The wildflower meadows of Swaledale

Historically hay meadows were a vital source of animal fodder which is used to help feed farm animals through the winter. The wildflower meadows of Swaledale and other similar dales have been in existence for centuries. However modern farming practices have drastically changed the farming landscape. As a result hay meadows are no longer as important as they once were. Nowadays the fields are harvested much more often during the growing season to produce silage, not hay.

Despite this hay meadows’ importance as a natural environment within which rare species of flora, insects and fauna are encouraged to grow has now been recognised. In the most biodiverse meadows about fifty species of plant are found in just one square metre! The preservation of modern wildflower meadows is supported by them being given Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) accreditation or similar levels of protection.

There are hay meadows throughout the Yorkshire Dales, each with their own unique species of flora. The best examples are found in Langstrothdale, Ribblesdale, Arkengarthdale and Swaledale. This article is concerned with a visit to the meadows near Muker in Swaledale.

Wildflower meadow management

A mature hay meadow takes many years to create, to allow the variety of flora to become established. The process follows an annual cycle.

At the start of spring the farmer’s livestock are allowed to graze in the meadows to allow them to eat some fresh food having been fed on hay through the winter.

swaledale meadow under blue winter sky with paved path running through it towards gate in dry stone wall
An unremarkable meadow in February, the time of year livestock are allowed to graze in the fields

In the late spring the farm animals are removed to allow the meadow grasses and flowers to grow. Finally hay harvesting happens as late as possible in the summer season. The reason for this is to give as many late flowering plants as possible a chance to flower.

Muker in Swaledale

Muker is a small village in Upper Swaledale located near the confluence of Straw Beck and the River Swale. The name ‘Muker’ derives from an old Norse term for ‘the narrow newly cultivated field’ which suggests that this area has been farmed for over a thousand years.

Visiting Muker is always a pleasure as it is a gorgeous little village, seemingly untouched by the modern world. The drive from Kirkby Stephen in Cumbria via Birkdale into the upper reaches of Swaledale is through stunning scenery. If I can think of any reason to make this journey I do!

I knew that in June the wildflower meadows near the village would be reaching maturity, before being harvested. That is as much reason as I need to head to Muker.

There is a pay and display car park at the eastern end of the village. However there is also a long lay-by on the road through the village that runs parallel to Straw Beck which is free.

Having parked in the lay-by I strode past the Farmer’s Arms pub (resisting the temptation), and past the Elizabethan church of St Mary the Virgin (yet again resisting the temptation, although the graveyard of the church is well worth a visit). The path heading north out of the village towards Keld leads to the meadows.

Muker Meadows SSSI

The meadows themselves are entered through a gate.

wooden gate into muker’s meadows: Keep To Path
Walkers gate into the wildflower meadows

There are four wildflower meadows in total north of Muker. The path through them is paved although I’m not sure why. Maybe the stones were put in relatively recently to help protect the fauna? Maybe the flagstones have been there years? Either way they make route-finding a doddle!

Muker meadow paved path through buttercups
Paved path through Muker’s wildflower meadows

In the first meadow the flowers are predominantly buttercups but in each successive meadow the diversity of fauna gets greater and greater.

Also in the first meadow there is a sign asking people to stay on the path. As some of the flora are so rare every step is being taken to prevent the plants coming to any harm.

Muker meadow sign: Keep To Path
Keep to path sign

In the summer, when the meadows are in flower, I’d like to think this sign is unnecessary as the vegetation is so thick that walking through it takes effort. After the hay has been harvested though the field looks pretty normal. I can therefore understand why steps have been taken to try to protect the area. Even out of season the plants need protecting.

Photographing Muker’s wildflower meadows

Anyway, I was here to some photography … but where to start? A dry stone barn is a good option and there are a few to choose from.

paved path through flowering wildflower meadow leading towards barn near Muker
Meadow path leading towards one of the barns
dry stone barn in flowering wildflower meadow near Muker
Another dry stone barn in one of the meadows

As far as detail shots go there is almost too much to take in. What to focus in on? What is rare? What is as common as muck? Sadly I’m no botanist.

Fortunately as I was mulling this over a real botanist walked past and I was lucky enough to strike up a conversation with her. Over the next half hour, she told me all about the flowers that were on show, pointing out each in turn. As she did so I took plenty of notes. The information was like pure gold! When she asked ‘do you now want me to tell you about all the different species of grasses on show?’ I was tempted to say ‘yes’ but didn’t. She had already been very generous, time was passing and I needed to take some photos. If she does happen to read this then please get in touch: I owe you a big thank you!

With this new found knowledge I started taking a few detail photos of the meadows’ wildflowers.

Hawksweed buttercups red clover in Muker wildflower meadow
Buttercups, pignut, red clover and hawksweed

In the above photo buttercups and red clover can clearly be seen. As can yellow rattle, pignut, hawksweed, wood crane’s-bill and eyebright. There were also daisies, plantain, lady’s mantle and self heal aplenty. As well as many species of grasses such as sheep’s sorrel … almost too much to take in!

Taking pictures of loads of flowers is easy enough in a place like this but I wanted to try to isolate one particular species. Being a landscape photographer I have a variety of lenses but none of them are capable of dealing with such small subjects. This problem was made greater as I had to stick to the path so my options were limited. I tried anyway and by focussing in on a small cluster of hawksweed got this photo:

After a couple of hours in the meadows my time was up. I hadn’t got that many photos, mainly as I had to keep waiting for the wind to die down, but was happy with what I had.

Looking back along the path to Muker I saw the chance for one last photo though: a panoramic photo of the meadows looking back towards the village. The result was this shot which is actually composed of five individual photos stitched together:

The overcast skies made photographing the meadow flowers much easier as the light was more diffused. However it didn’t look so good on this photo so I cropped it out. I much prefer this version.

The track back to Muker village

I didn’t want to retrace my steps so walked back along the track contouring the western side of the valley. And it turns out the track is a great vantage point over the meadows. Time for one last photo stop.

Wandering through the wildflower meadows of Swaledale when they’re in flower is always an experience. To also come away with some photos I am happy with is an extra bonus. And thanks to an unexpected meeting with a botanist I know what the photographs are of too!

To view these and other photos from the Dales please head to the Swaledale section of my Yorkshire Dales photo gallery.

A visit to the wildflower meadows of Swaledale was last modified: March 23rd, 2024 by Gavin Dronfield

Further reading:

  • Bluebells and ramsons in Robin Hoods Howl
    May 2016 : Visiting Robin Hoods Howl, a coppiced beech woodland on the edge of the North York Moors National Park that is carpeted with ramsons in springtime

  • Gunnerside lead mines from Gunnerside
    September 2016 : A walk from Gunnerside up Gunnerside Gill to visit the disused lead mines amidst a devastated landscape above Swaledale, in the Yorkshire Dales

  • Wild camping on Wild Boar Fell
    May 2018 : A seven mile climb up Wild Boar Fell from Cotegill Bridge for a windy, sleepless night's wild camping. The dawn made it all worthwhile though!

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